Paris Fashion Week: fashion at the French court
credits: Vogue Runway
More than one hundred fashion houses and labels, 64 fashion shows and 41 presentations. As always at Paris Fashion Week there was no way to get bored. The French fashion week closed the September appointment with the fashion shows, inaugurated by the events in New York and continued with those in London and Milan. An edition marked by the debut on the French catwalks of Peter DO and Marni, which chose to show its eclectic creations in the house of Karl Lagerfeld, but also by the return of Mugler and Maison Margiela, with John's increasingly agender style Galliano.
Maria Grazia Chiuri's collection for Christian Dior is dominated by total black, with some incursions of white and beige, while Saint Laurent has chosen the path of workwear in a glam declination, between work overalls and safari jackets cinched at the waist, although Antony Vaccarello he did not miss bold transparencies and intensely feminine looks. Chanel has focused on the antithesis between sophisticated and informal: for Virginie Viard next summer promises to be carefree, with multicolored tweed dressing gowns, terrycloth jackets and striped Bermuda shorts. The heels? Strictly flat.
Nicolas Ghesquière has chosen to present light silhouettes and tailored ensembles for Louis Vuitton, including wide flowing skirts and oversized outerwear, combined with hyper-feminine shoes and reinterpreted iconic accessories. Lightness is also the watchword for Hermes: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk brought to the catwalk looks designed to sensually accompany movements, including leather garments with micro-perforations and coats with soft lines in warm earth tones.
Paris was also the place of Sarah Burton's final farewell to Alexander McQueen: the SS2024 collection was the last designed by the designer for the brand (she was succeeded by the young Irish designer and photographer Sean McGirr), in a mix of sculpted tailoring and punk accents. Between decidedly oversized overcoats and exaggerated evening dresses, Balenciaga caught attention with a décolleté-shaped clutch. Piccioli instead designed capes, dresses and shorts in carved fabric for Valentino which complemented oversized garments and total denim looks.