Free to be nonconforming: menswear 2024 at Milan Fashion Week
Flowing jackets and utility vests, denim and Bermuda shorts, business suits and strictly sensual outfits. Milan Fashion Week Uomo, dedicated to S/S 2024, leaves us with a photograph of menswear made of gentle contrasts and barely hinted eccentricities. It is difficult to trace back to a lowest common denominator the dense calendar of the Milan event, but to win, perhaps, is the desire for freedom and relaxation. The answer to the question "can you be yourself today?" is always yes, whether that means indulging in comfort or being guided by tailoring.
One example is the men's show "Valentino The Narratives," which opened the calendar with a show dedicated to a timeless men's wardrobe. A collection made of clean lines and neutral tones, lit by flashes of fuchsia and turquoise.
Neutral colors for Dolce & Gabbana, which among transparencies and floral embroidery opts for monochromatic looks, from classic black and white to camel shades. Warm tones also for MSGM, with the "Sogno Off Road" collection, inspired by a recent trip to Tanzania by Massimo Giorgetti.
Two symbols of these fashion shows: workwear and short pants. Prada proposed different declinations, of utility vests (including a faux-fur version), while Etro and Magliano declined the mood with suits inspired by workman's uniforms. The codes of tailoring are all there, slightly rewritten. Valentino does this by offering jacket and Bermuda suits, but short, high-waisted pants are also on the runway for Prada, they are in satin for Dolce & Gabbana, in printed silk for Etro, in boxer version leather for Gucci.
A special mention for jackets: in oversize version for MSGM or pinstriped and double-breasted for Dolce &Gabbana they become fluid and very elegant for Armani, while Kiton proposes them in linen, embellished with leather inserts. Space is also given to denim. Denim, a symbolic element of normalwear, is transversal: it plays on textures, shapes and details. Valentino proposes a wide leg version, and Prada also focuses on fluid lines. Dsquared2 personalizes it with applications of studs and stars, while Gucci's is embroidered.
Completing the looks were the accessories. Colorful clutches from Valentino and crinkle-effect maxi bags from Prada did not go unnoticed. Among shoes, the absolute winner is the loafer (worn with collegiate-style shorts and socks): one above all the iconic Horsebit by Gucci, whose 70th anniversary was celebrated, but also those in patent leather and square toe by Prada and 'ballerina' inspired for Dolce & Gabbana. Finally, the belt is transformed from accessory to protagonist for Dsquared2 and Tod's, in woven leather and Timeless T buckle.