183 NEWS The world of fashion is paying increasing attention to environmental issues. Sustainable production for a reduced impact of Luxury fashion accessories is now at the top of the to-do list of all top international brands. This awareness has also involved the entire production chain of suppliers of luxury brands like a domino effect. Demonstrating concrete proof of being a virtuous company without hiding behind “greenwashing” has become a basic requirement to be competitive and included in the market. The tanning sector in particular is one of those most involved in the issue of eco-sustainability precisely because of the intrinsic complexity of the leather tanning business. What one registers when talking to insiders in this segment, is a sort of “race” to obtain environmental certifications as an indispensable parameter in order to be aligned with client demands. In this scenario, the certification issued by the international Leather Working Group (LWG) is the most popular among the tanneries in the Made in Italy districts. This certificate, also legitimised in 2019 by the memorandum of understanding with UNIC, responds to numerous parameters. LWG assesses various aspects of the tanning business: transparency and conformity of tanning practices, high leather quality standards, consistency and harmonisation for adherence to client strategy, and social and ethical responsibility for working conditions. All this is technically assessed through an audit protocol on leather sourcing, chemical usage, waste management, environmental impact, and more. From this, a score is calculated that assigns the examined company three different levels of medals, ranging from bronze to gold. The LWG certification is voluntary on the part of the participants and is valid for two years for leather production plants and one year for traders of partially processed materials. On a national level, however, the reference standard is UNI 11427, in existence since 2016 and recently updated in 2022. This standard defines the performance that a (genuine) leather produced with reduced environmental impact must have in order to be called “eco-sustainable leather”. The standard, already certifiable with ICEC, defines the process parameters per unit of leather produced (e.g., consumption of resources: water, energy, chemicals; atmospheric emissions, waste production, water discharges) that must comply with reduced performance limits. In addition, minimum product requirements are established both to characterise the type of tanning used (e.g., chrome, vegetable, chromium or metal free, organic), and to verify chemical conformity to the essential requirements common to all types of leather, to guarantee the minimum performance in terms of leather durability according to its intended use. All requirements refer to the production of the leather from raw to finished. ICEC has already been issuing the relevant environmental product certification to tanneries and their articles since 2016 (the first edition of this standard). Today, it is already possible to proceed with the new 2022 edition, which measures the improvement of the environmental performance of products over time through its performance levels. But there is another challenge on the horizon for the luxury fashion sector and, fall, for the Made in Italy production chains and more. In fact, as of January 1, 2025, new EU obligations will come into force with a view to a sustainable economy. European fashion giants will be obliged periodically publish their impact on the environment, people, the planet, and the sustainability risks they face. This should facilitate the reduction of “greenwashing” and lay the foundation for a global standard of transparency. The circle is tightening, and excellence will increasingly be measured in relation to environmental impact. Will our companies be ready? The tanneries’ race for certification and new sustainability standards against “greenwashing”
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NDMxMQ==