Leather & Luxury 30

93 ACCESSORIES Galvanic coating has a dual role for fashion accessories: it makes them more beautiful (considering that the most commonly used materials in this sector are non-noble metals such as brass and zamak), but above all it has the function of improving their durability and corrosion resistance over time. For this to be possible, it is first necessary to apply a series of metal build-ups to the accessories that can be grouped into two types of cycles: with nickel or without (nickel-free). Historically, nickel-based processes have been used extensively, but in more recent years the use of this metal has steadily decreased with the introduction of European standards (such as UNI-EN 1811 or EN 16128) that limit the amount to be applied to articles. The Legor company’s strong commitment to search for sustainable solutions has led it not only to create processes capable of guaranteeing a release within standard limits, but even to go so far as to develop galvanic solutions, and entire galvanic cycles, where no nickel is present at all. All this while maintaining the aesthetic and technical characteristics imposed by current quality standards. This is because the Vicenza-based company, in addition to wanting to comply with regulations in terms of nickel release, it wants to create products that are respectful of the environment and the health of the galvanic operators directly involved in processing the accessories. Moreover, even when it comes to guaranteeing high performance in terms of tarnish (i.e., oxidation) and abrasion resistance, fashion accessories must comply with specific standards governed by precise norms. positi metallici aderiscano correttamente tra di loro e al metallo base con cui è realizzato l'oggetto. La verifica della corretta adesione del rivestimento è data dalla prova di quadrettatura - regolata da diverse norme, come la ISO2819:2017 e la ISO 27874:2008-, che fornisce un metodo per la valutazione della resistenza dei depositi galvanici al distacco. Grazie allo studio e all’analisi continua, il team R&D di Legor è oggi in grado di fornire cicli galvanici personalizzati che garantiscono la massima adesione e la conseguente durata degli accessori creati. From nickel-free solutions to passing the grid test with tailor-made galvanic processes for durable fashion accessories Metallurgy and chemicals for fashion accessories

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