Leather & Luxury 30

29 of digital replacing the live experience. The key elements are always talent and creativity, and AI is not yet equipped with them».Diego Salerno: «Fashion, like art and design, needs physicality, it is a tactile and cultural process. For me, AI is a functional tool that can optimise many aspects of creating a fashion collection, but it is not exhaustive in terms of knowledge, expertise, and research. The younger generations may get unaccustomed to using their cultural base for research. I appreciate the instantaneousness of the digital tool, but training needs a combination of actual practice and the phygital aspect, especially in the first years of experience, both study and professional». Lara Messarra: «I studied a lot to learn how the creative process works in fashion, so I think that AI is a fast but incomplete method because it doesn’t allow you to carry out the necessary training steps to become a designer. When we talk about creativity, we talk about the beauty of our work, which is research and development. With the use of AI, you don’t get involved because this process gets blocked. In a way, it’s also good to struggle because at that moment you explore and get to the bottom of your skills, allowing you to feel alive and creative». So, how could AI be used constructively as a tool for fashion? Francesca Giulia Tavanti: «Concurrently with the pandemic, Istituto Marangoni was one of the first schools to introduce an update of the teaching proposal in favour of digital fashion through the inclusion of CLO3D, a software for designing patterns in 3D. This concerned all the school sites (there are ten of them worldwide) where there is content related to CLO3D, Artificial Intelligence, technological implementation tout court, NFT, etc. Having the art and visual art department, which is very much linked to the digital part, the Florence branch plays in the home court». Diego Salerno: «Often young novice designers justly have no idea of the costs involved in producing a garment or accessory. Certainly, in the product development phase, not yet having gained experience, the use of digital tools such as AI or 3D graphics is ideal in order to be able to simulate the prototype almost 100% realistically and to create a graphic preview of the outfits in a short time without having to physically create them. I have been involved in the creation of many sales campaigns presented with only 3D collections, which is very useful for minimizing waste , reducing sample and production costs and time, seeking out an increasingly sustainable approach and method». Lara Messarra: «In fashion, time is a perennial missing factor, so AI could be useful to gain some of it. But this raises another question: what if the creative inputs given to AI for my brand coincided with those of my competitors’ collections? A very complex problem to address would emerge».

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