Catwalk Analysis – Haute Couture FW22/23




Theatrical, opulent, star-studded: couture stuns the senses, thanks in part to social media that amplifies its aesthetic impact. No longer on exclusive view for a select few VIPs and buyers, but thanks to the media battage admired and shared globally. The return to live presentations has inspired memorable shows and more contemporary collections, including in materials. In addition to the glitz of excellent fabrics, as well as leather, metal mesh, feathers and embellishments, we admired unprecedented canvas (by Gaultier, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli), neoprene (by Balenciaga) and pvc (to name two, Mabille and Valli), now cleared through customs in high fashion. The futuristic creativity of Iris Van Herpen and her increasingly spectacular dresses (and accessories) made of resin, and acrylic and other recycled materials modeled in 3D, was also not absent this time.





It was also the haute couture of collaborations. If Balenciaga (in the unprecedented 'See Now Buy Now' version) proposed a handbag/music box made with Bang & Olufsen, Jean Paul Gaultier -in Olivier Rousteing's interpretation- cites the icons of his past such as the perfume bottles and bustiers props for Madonna, also an anatomically molded leather version. Transversal common thread among the proposals sparkling chromatic flashes, which well interpret the desire for fun and lightness that animates the world of fashion, and not only.


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