Catwalk Analysis: Men’s Collections SS23
If Prada in collaboration with the trusted Raf Simons reinterprets through leather the styles of classic garments such as duster coats and Bermuda shorts (which become fetish) combined with maxi-shoppers, Fendi shows all the pliability of the material by declining it in duffle bags and buckets as well as in soft blousons.
The biker mood holds sway at Moschino, which highlights its striking leather coordinates with contrasting profiles and graphics in homage to 1980s artist Tony Viramontes. Even at JW Anderson, leather subverts the mold and transforms into skate pants reinterpreted in a Gen-Z key.
At Versace there is no shortage of the usual sensual maximalism expressed in important lasings, exotic leathers, and bags of all shapes and colors, an atmosphere saturated with stimuli that we also find in Louis Vuitton's collection, full of acid colors and sporty-chic inspiration.
Dior, Etro and Giorgio Armani represent the style bulwark of the chicest man, who prefers a sober color palette and sports functional, versatile, always elegant accessories.
Always topical are the New Western references seen by Dries Van Noten, Celine and Y/Project, which are developed in fringed jackets, cowboy-style pants and especially Texans, in line with the latest trends that want boots even in summer. To close the roundup of looks, Rick Owens' experimentation with transparent leather, already seen in sneakers in past collections, goes as far as biker-style pants that become ethereal and almost angelic.
All images via Vogue.com