If you have at least a basic knowledge of interior design or were born before the 2000s, you will recognize this typical weave of Thonet chairs, widely found in Italian homes. It is called Vienna straw, a lattice characterized by octagonal openings, traditionally made from straw or other natural materials. Today, Dior is reinterpreting it in leather, effectively establishing a new trend: open weaves, set to replace more classic patterns in accessories for upcoming seasons.
Credit: Dior
«It is definitely a trend we have been noticing for a few months now,» says Orietta Tamanti from R79, a company based in the Marche region specializing in weaving. «We have moved from the classic Bottega Veneta-style weave to more open and freer patterns, such as Vienna straw, which works very well for both footwear and bags.»
Credit: Bottega Veneta
This type of weave allows for greater creative freedom, moving away from the more formal structures of quiet luxury and embracing a new season of more contemporary and expressive design, without losing its artisanal value. On the contrary, it increases the manual component: «Open weaving is technically more complex to produce on a loom. Material thickness plays a key role, and to create large openings, manual intervention is often required. Sometimes the weaves are so open that they need to be stitched using a linking machine,» explains Tamanti.
These complexities naturally affect both costs and production timelines: a panel measuring 70 cm in height and about 1.5 meters in length requires a full day of manual work, while machine production can yield up to 30 meters in the same time. For this reason, companies aim to find semi-manual solutions, preserving the beauty and craft value of the final product while optimizing production time.
Credit: R79
So, is the era of the classic weave over? «Not entirely,» Tamanti adds. «Alongside open weaves, there is also strong interest in very tight and fine weaves of around 3 mm. However, the direction has changed: no longer straight, but in a herringbone pattern.»
