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What is inlay, the technique that took over the winter collections

di Claudia Poticky

4 September 2025

 

Credit: Bottega Veneta

 

 

What is inlay?In leather craftsmanship, it consists of combining different sections of materials to create a unified design. This technique requires extreme precision in cutting and assembling, capable of bringing to life complex patterns and richly detailed surfaces. Alongside its aesthetic value, there is also an ethical aspect: inlay makes it possible to reuse scraps and offcuts from production, combining savoir-faire with a focus on sustainability.

 

LEATHER IN DIFFERENT COLORS
The Ciao Ciao bag by Bottega Veneta showcases artisanal mastery in its details: the multicolored calfskin strips are perfectly aligned between the flap and the body, creating the impression of a seamless and continuous motif. Inlay also becomes a tool to reinterpret traditional codes: in the Highlands bowling bag by Burberry, crafted in grain buffalo leather, the brand’s iconic check is hand-reconstructed, with visible stitching that enhances the pattern.

 

SMOOTH AND SUEDE LEATHER
In the new Bag Folio by Tod’s, inlay creates a refined trompe-l’oeil through the combination of smooth and suede leather. The sections, worked in the same shades of color, alternate with precision to simulate a weave, giving the surface a three-dimensional overlapping effect.

 

FUR
Inlay can also infuse a real sense of movement, as in Fendi’s Spy bag in hand-inlaid mink, featuring a chevron motif that blends the natural tones of beige, brown, and black of each individual piece. The result is a vibrant and dynamic surface, an emblematic example of how traditional craftsmanship can evolve into contemporary experimentation.