This Processing Is Conquering Luxury Brands
Brands reinterpret quilting as a creative language between technique, material, and customization
di Francesca Zaccagnini
28 April 2026

The winter couture of Valentino with the golden trench coat and quilted in every centimeter, the Fall Winter 2026 collection of Moncler Grenoble with naturalistic patterns, the Spring 2026 of Pucci: the latest collections have borrowed one of the most iconic techniques of leather goods, quilting, to enrich outerwear pieces.


Showing not only its beauty, but also the extreme possibility of customization: with the same technique it is in fact possible to obtain effects that are also extremely different from each other, as demonstrated by the patterns of the Moncler show.



«Everything lies in the padding», reveals Tommaso Lai of Essemme, a Tuscan company specialized in embroidery and quilting. «Even a very simple motif can completely change appearance using different paddings, because the areas that are not stitched remain more or less puffed and therefore three-dimensional. It is no coincidence that even before the sample, when the client gives us a pattern to quilt the first step is always the padding test».
Another central element is the complexity of the design, which is the more visually impactful the more it alternates designs and lines of various sizes: «By playing with the width of the channels and with the designs, it almost creates a bas-relief that creates a play of light and shadow. And by using elements such as iridescent yarns or dégradé, even more precious effects can be obtained».
