These Types Of Weaves Will Replace The Classic Ones

Credit: R79

 

If you have even a basic knowledge of interior design, or if you were born before the 2000s, you will be familiar with this type of weave typical of Thonet chairs and widely found in Italian homes. It is called Vienna cane and consists of a lattice characterized by octagonal openings, traditionally made from cane or other natural materials. Today, Dior reinterprets it in leather, effectively confirming a new trend: open weaves, set to replace classic ones in accessories for the coming seasons.

 

“It’s definitely a trend we’ve been noticing for a few months now,” says Orietta Tamanti of R79, a Marche-based company specializing in weaving. “We’ve moved away from classic woven styles like Bottega Veneta’s toward looser, more open weaves, such as Vienna cane, which works extremely well for both footwear and bags.”

 

This type of weaving allows for greater creativity and moves away from the more formal structures of quiet luxury, embracing a new season of more creative and contemporary design—without sacrificing craftsmanship. On the contrary, it enhances the handmade component: “Open weaves are technically more complex to produce on a loom. Material thickness becomes crucial, and to create large openings, manual intervention is often required. In some cases, the weave is so open that it needs to be stitched using a reinforcement machine,” Tamanti explains.

These complexities naturally affect costs and production times: a panel measuring 70 cm in height and about 1.5 meters in length requires a full day of manual work, while machine production can yield up to 30 meters in the same amount of time. For this reason, semi-manual solutions are often sought, allowing artisans to preserve the beauty and value of the finished product while optimizing production time.

So, is the era of classic weaving over? “Not entirely,” Tamanti adds. “Alongside open weaves, there is also strong interest in very tight, small weaves of around 3 mm. What has changed, however, is the direction of the weave: no longer straight, but herringbone.”