The Precious Fabrics Reclaiming The Runways

Brocades, jacquard, laminated prints on silk, fabrics with lurex threads. The latest collections have marked a strong return to rich and tactile materials, with a strong decorative and artisanal component. This is especially evident on the runways of Chanel and Valentino, the former using classic techniques and craftsmanship to create innovative or contemporary visual effects, the latter instead to tell a connection with the past and the history of the brand.

For the maison led by Blazy, a lot of work is done with jacquard and tweed. Jacquard has a pattern with a base in cotton, silk or blends, while the motif takes shape thanks to the alternation of different yarns in thickness, shine and color. When the relief is more pronounced and can also include metallic threads, it is called brocade. «Its beauty lies in the surface that appears alive, with a depth that varies depending on the light. Tweed, a Chanel classic, is instead made contemporary by lamé or slightly shiny threads that make it precious», says Loredana Mazza from Schmid, a company specialized in high-quality fabrics and yarns.

«Overall, there is a clear enhancement of fabrics that combine tradition and refined workmanship, with a balance between structure and fluidity». As in the case of Valentino, which uses silk chiffon and georgette, light and transparent fabrics made with very fine and high-twist yarns. Chiffon has a more fluid and impalpable hand, while georgette is slightly more substantial and grainy. Both stand out for their movement: they react to air and the body, creating a continuous dynamic. Their structure also makes them suitable for techniques such as pleating, which amplifies volume without weighing them down.

«Brands are increasingly asking us for fabrics with three-dimensional effects, not only for garments but also for accessories» adds Mariella Catalano of Schimd. «There is a strong desire to enrich collections with precious materials, with glitter and micro luminous elements applied to light and transparent structures that remain light and that interact with light».