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The eyewear industry is renewing itself by focusing on a detail: the closure mechanism.

di Mattia Tresoldi

30 January 2026

Credit: Lindberg

 

There are inventions whose design has remained virtually unchanged over the years, if not centuries. Objects in which the overlap of functionality, ergonomics, and manufacturing simplicity has reached such a complete form that it is difficult to imagine a true revolution. Eyeglasses could also fall into this category: their fundamental structure—two lenses, a bridge, and two temples—has remained unchanged since the eighteenth century, and in recent years innovation has focused less on the object’s structure and more on materials and the integration of augmented reality. Bio-acetate is gradually replacing traditional acetate thanks to its higher degree of biodegradability, while the launch of Ray-Ban x Meta by Luxottica has paved the way for hyper-connected eyewear. A revolution that will soon also involve Prada eyewear, as anticipated during the presentation event, with a design capable of making the presence of hardware even more discreet, almost invisible.

However, the new Spring/Summer 2026 collections seem to be moving in a different direction: not toward a desire for high-tech innovation, but rather toward innovation in eyewear closure mechanisms, with frames that go beyond the classic side hinge we wear every day. Among the most interesting examples are those from the maisons of the Kering group. Balenciaga presents the “Racer,” a cat-eye sunglasses frame equipped with hinges capable of rotating 180 degrees. The temples can fold toward the lenses in both directions, making the glasses more compact and easier to carry. Bottega Veneta is also exploring new ways of connecting temples to frames, with lenses featuring a perfectly shaped lateral отверст—designed as an anchoring point for the golden knot. The lenses thus receive the knot as if it were threaded through them, transforming an iconic brand detail into a mechanical component.

It is in the world of high-end prescription eyewear, however, that this search for innovative solutions reaches its most radical expression. Lindberg, the historic Danish brand acquired by Kering in 2021, works with ultra-light, medical-grade, hypoallergenic titanium to create glasses without screws or rivets between frame and temples, using various patented systems, such as spiral or locking mechanisms. The result is a piece with a highly minimalist design that completely eliminates the need for periodic maintenance. The company’s production approach is also extremely contemporary, following an on-demand principle: to minimize inventory and reduce waste, Lindberg produces components separately and assembles the glasses only at the time of order. This lean approach ensures efficient stock management and allows for the creation of bespoke, customized prescription frames.

The Italian company Marcolin is also moving in the direction of “seamless” frames with the brand ic! berlin. Characterized by a proprietary hinge system without screws, rivets, or glue, the design is based on three thin metal bands that interlock with one another, creating an extremely clean aesthetic that has become the brand’s signature. In a sector that is crucial to Made in Italy, long positioned at the crossroads between fashion and functional needs, the Spring/Summer 2026 season thus reveals a renewed engineering vitality: a creative push that does not aim to change eyewear in its archetypal form, but in its mechanics. Sometimes, innovation means intervening in a minimal, almost invisible detail. Removing a screw might seem like an insignificant gesture. Yet, in a sector built on precision, micro-components, and everyday use, it could turn out to be a small but great revolution destined to change the way we see eyewear in the future.