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The 5 Most Extraordinary Craftsmanship Techniques from Couture Shows

From Chanel to Balenciaga, the hidden processes behind the creations seen on the runway

di Francesca Zaccagnini

21 July 2026

What is couture if not the extraordinary ability of fashion houses to create incredible visual effects through increasingly complex and advanced techniques that disappear behind the final result? The Autumn Winter 2026 Haute Couture shows presented in Paris in recent weeks are the perfect example of this savoir-faire, one that cannot be fully appreciated at first glance except through the beauty of the creations it brings to life. Here is a look behind the scenes of some of the most remarkable craftsmanship techniques.

Chanel’s trompe-l'œil lace

Atelier Montex created this trompe-l'œil effect, where the illusion of lace is achieved through embroidery. The flowers are first embroidered using the Cornely machine, combining a variety of stitches and different types of yarn, including cotton, linen, viscose and Lurex. They are then assembled by hand to create a continuous surface, while leaving some petals partially detached to add depth and three-dimensionality. The centre and stamens are crocheted and applied at the end.

Schiaparelli’s trencadís pattern

11,288 flowers and 2,779 hours of work: these are the figures behind the sculptural jacket embroidered with fish scales, hand-painted ribbons and flowers—the same craftsmanship technique featured on the bag and shoes. The inspiration comes from trencadís, an ornamental decoration technique using ceramic fragments, widely found in Catalan Modernist architecture and developed by architect Antoni Gaudí.

Fendi’s leather lace

long ivory cape that, at first glance, appears to be lace is actually the result of meticulous embroidery work. Individual leather and feather elements are hand-embroidered onto an artisanal mesh, creating a floral composition of flowers, leaves and branches.

Dior’s collage skirt

Inspired by the work of artist Lynda Benglis, Jonathan Anderson recreated the creative process behind her Paper Work series to design two skirts built through the layering of colours and materials. A soft silver mesh becomes the base for a collage of metallic fabrics covered with chiffon.

The sculptural leather in Balenciaga’s garments

Hidden beneath the fluid silhouettes of the garments is a leather structure created through an artisanal process that combines contemporary technology—the 3D scanning of the model’s body—with the precision of craftsmanship. This technique allows the leather to be shaped into a kind of shell supporting the fabric of the garment, creating a sculptural effect.