Skills, artificial intelligence and emerging markets: the new season of innovation

 

According to Assomac’s 2024 preliminary report, the sector of technologies for the tanning, footwear and leather goods industries recorded a 12% drop in turnover, with a projected year-end figure of around 575 million euros. The downturn is attributed to slowing investments in the fashion industry, geopolitical instability, inflation, and new trade barriers hampering exports.

 

Yet, in a challenging context, Italy confirms its position as a global leader in the high-end segment, maintaining in 2024 a 52% share of global exports of tanning machines, 35% for leather goods machinery, and 12% for footwear machinery – the latter currently under pressure from Chinese competition in Asia. It is in this scenario that Simac Tanning Tech 2025 will take place, scheduled from 23 to 25 September 2025 at Fiera Milano Rho.

 

« It will be a transitional edition, » explains Agostino Apolito, director of Assomac. « The moment is complex, but that’s exactly why we want to focus on two key areas: skills and territoriality. »

 

The focus is on technology that is increasingly accessible and customizable. « Our companies work closely with clients, » says Apolito, « and this allows us to develop tailor-made solutions, designed to be intuitive and truly useful in enhancing in-house skills. The downside? Less standardisation. But it’s a necessary trade-off to remain in the high-end market segment. »

 

Alongside innovation, Simac will target new strategic regions. « This year we’ve chosen to focus attention on Africa, » continues Apolito. « In collaboration with ICE, we’ll increase the number of visiting delegations at the fair: we’re receiving clear signals of technological demand from several African countries, both for tanning and for leather and footwear production. Naturally, we’ll also continue to bring in delegations from key markets such as India, Pakistan, China, Indonesia and South America. »

 

Among the exhibition stands, three major innovation pillars will take centre stage: artificial intelligence, data management and energy efficiency. « We’ll see AI solutions applied to various production stages in the footwear and leather sectors, such as cutting, » says Apolito, « as well as technologies capable of capturing key data for optimisation, monitoring and process planning. »

 

In these sectors, innovation is driven by predictive software and machine learning algorithms, which improve timing, quality, and reduce waste. In the tanning industry, AI is used for the formulation of chemical recipes, selecting ideal dosages and compounds for each type of leather.

 

AI also plays a role in traceability. « There are solutions that read the leather using imaging systems, » Apolito explains. « They can recognise chips and codes to ensure traceability throughout the tanning process. » Defect management is also becoming more advanced: algorithms analyse each hide, discard unusable parts, and prepare the material for cutting.

 

AI is also a tool for enhancing human capital: « Our technologies don’t replace the operator – they empower them, » continues Apolito. « The machine gives the user added value and helps them grow in skills. It’s a necessary leap: if we don’t take it, we risk falling behind those who have already integrated AI and deep learning into their machinery. »

 

The real challenge, however, is communication between machines. « A shared language is needed, a single coding model, » says Apolito. « Artificial intelligence can help us build bridges between different machines, translating and recoding software to enable integration between production stages. »

 

Simac Tanning Tech aims to be the starting point for this transition. « The trade fair is an opportunity to engage, understand where the sector is heading and truly innovate. And today, innovating means simplifying, connecting and making Italian technological excellence accessible to the world. »