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Oro Nero By Ricami MM

From third-party manufacturing to a proprietary brand, combining technical innovation and creativity

di Francesca Zaccagnini

11 June 2026

Behind every innovative technique there is always a creative need. In the case of Ricami MM, it was driven by Vasco Ercolanoni, founder of the Umbrian embroidery company, who last year launched Oro Nero, a proprietary brand born from technical experimentation and an apparently impossible request: to embroider a very thick yarn in mohair wool and lurex, enriched with 8 mm sequins.

 

From that process, originally developed for a brand, an entire range of products emerged, showcasing its expressive potential, with surfaces that completely change appearance depending on the material used: nets, tangles, three-dimensional textures, or effects reminiscent of handmade knitwear.

“Already twenty years ago my father Vasco developed a clothing line, later set aside to focus on third-party production. At a certain point, however, he felt the need for a creative outlet again,” says Chiara Ercolanoni, representing the second generation leading the company. The name Oro Nero comes from one of their horses, a Murgese: a choice that links the brand to the family’s passion for equestrian culture and to the idea of a strong, elegant, and distinctive Made in Italy, just like this breed.

 

Today Oro Nero is distributed online and in selected retail stores in Italy and abroad, while the creative concept remains entirely within the family. Production, however, continues to rely heavily on local manufacturing, working with workshops in the Bastia Umbra area. Third-party production still accounts for about 70% of the company’s activity, but the direction is clear: “We dream of being able to focus more and more on the brand.