How Can You Recognize Real Exotic Leather?

In the Spring/Summer collections, exotic leather textures have been everywhere. Crocodile appeared in the prêt-à-porter by Demna for Gucci, in accessories by Tom Ford designed by Haider Ackermann, in outerwear by Prada, and in bags by Ferragamo. Yet, as surprising as it may seem—especially in the world of luxury—none of these items is made from real crocodile leather. So how can you recognize it by eye?

Most often, these are calfskin or bovine leathers embossed with a crocodile pattern through a process called embossing. Generally, printed leather shows a very uniform design, with scales of the same size and shape both on the belly and the sides. By contrast, in precious leathers, the natural irregularity of the scales is clearly visible. The use of printing responds both to a matter of price and to a strategic choice: some companies have decided not to use exotic leathers or fur in their collections.

«What the public often doesn’t know is that the trade in precious leathers is highly regulated, with numerous certifications», says Greta Puccioni of La Patrie, a company specializing in the tanning of precious leathers. «Control over farms, sourcing, and production is extremely strict. Buying a precious leather item guarantees full traceability and origin of the product, which is not always the case with other materials, nor as sustainable.»

In recent years, scandals have increased attention on transparency, traceability, and consumer awareness. The price, now more than ever, must be justified by quality. «Some brands have returned to using exotic leathers after years of hiatus. This is because customers who buy these products appreciate the entire system behind them: research, craftsmanship, and the exclusivity of the product. And they are willing to spend very high amounts.»