From the laboratory to the tannery: biotechnology leads the green revolution in tanning

 

Credit: Leather Kem

 

At the heart of a historically energy-intensive and chemically demanding industry like tanning, Leather Kem is charting a new course through the use of biotechnology. Led by Federico Giglioli, the company aims to drastically reduce the environmental impact of tanning without compromising quality.

 

How? Through its Bio Lab, a research centre that develops next-generation tanning agents based on enzymes and bio-compatible processes capable of reducing consumption, emissions, and waste. The processes developed in Bio Lab are already scalable to an industrial level, thanks to a semi-industrial platform unique in Europe.

 

«Our biotechnologies are applied in two key phases: beamhouse and re-tanning», explains Giglioli. «In the first, we use non-GMO, biodegradable enzymes developed and produced by Biodermol Ambiente to remove hair and fat, improving wastewater quality and preserving the grain of the leather».

 

The results speak for themselves: up to 60% less COD in wastewater and a significant reduction in sulphur compounds. The enzymes act selectively and naturally, also reducing operators’ exposure to toxic substances.

In the re-tanning phase, Leather Kem uses biopolymers derived from soybean and rice by-products: «We have developed re-tanning agents containing up to 97% biobased materials and processes that reduce water consumption by 65%».

 

The company collaborates with local universities, and Bio Lab is supported by partners such as Biodermol Ambiente, specialised in natural enzymes, biomasses, and bioactivators, and Atlas Refinery, an American company producing fatliquors for various industrial sectors.

 

The next challenge for the future? Integrating artificial intelligence into process development. «From product design to environmental indicators such as LCA and carbon footprint, AI will help us refine every phase».